Field notes to help you along the way, tried and tested, all gained from experience.

Compost: I use multi purpose compost for all my sowing, no need to spend more money on specialised types it really isn’t necessary, just please try to buy peat-free where possible.

Add some Vermiculite to sowing compost to help keep an open-structure, namely so the tiny delicate roots, find their way through easily, to give aeration and reduce water logging. It helps stop damping off (when seedlings keel over from being too wet because they rot). I use compost 2:1 vermiculite.

Modules or seed trays  or pots for geminating? Seeds will grow in anything obviously. Sow seeds in pots if they are to remain there, this is called sowing direct, direct into pots, or in fact direct into the ground, they are germinated in situ. Sowing into modules or seed trays creates seedlings, that, in my opinion are more robust and able to cope better with predation from slugs amongst other things. I always sow in modules first, veg ( except long rooted, like carrots and parsnips) and all flowers.

Modules come in different sizes and are suited in different ways to what you are sowing. I guess its a bit of trial and error but I have always found modules that are 2.5cm work well for most small seeds, bigger for peas and beans. I tend to sow 2 seeds per module, prick one out and leave one to grow. Seed trays require a bit more effort but they do reduce space. With seeds in seed trays (literally a tray , without individual cells) you can scatter sow and even sow different seed type in each corner. You have to be ruthless! These seeds will germinate en masse and require pricking out early into modules. The benefit of this type of sowing not only saves space but you can selectively choose the strongest seedlings to prick out and grow on. Its labour intensive but its a method I use a lot as I have a lots of germination going on!

When to sow will depend on the seed you have, growing guides are quite generalised but provided you have warmth and moisture and once germinated, light, you should be able to grow successfully.

Fill your containers with compost to about 2 cm down and firm gently and then add a loose layer on top, to the top of the pot. You could use vermiculite or perlite here instead.

Before you sow make sure that you have watered the compost first ( rather than after you sow), it will help settle the compost and stop the seeds being moved about . Use tap water whenever possible for cleanliness. Stand your tray , pot, whatever in water and allow to soak in.

Generally the sowing depth of any seed is double that of the seed itself.    Some seeds are best sown on edge rather than lying flat e.e. courgette seed to reduce the risk of rot.

Water sparingly once your seeds have been sown, if you have watered before sowing the moisture in the compost will be adequate for a while. Don’t let the compost dry out but don’t soak it either. 

A good method is to cover your seeds with a clear polythene bag and seal. This will hold the moisture really well and you won’t need to water until the seeds have germinated.

Be careful if you are using direct heat to warm your plants such as a propagator or a radiator, while this will warm the soil well, in my experience there’s a fine line with creating warmth and totally drying out your compost which is a disaster for a germinating seed. Provide some insulation between the heat source and your seeds, and cover with polythene to retain moisture.

For seeds that are best uncovered for germination, I.e. seeds that just sit on top of compost and aren’t covered – I use a glass or polythene, so light not excluded but helps keep a moist environment. Don’t put these in direct light until germination.

Warmth requirements depend on seed varieties. Many seeds will show a preferred temperature. It’s not too critical so don’t worry about it, successful germination for the majority of seeds can occur indoors on your windowsill. 

Once seeds have germinated you must move them to an area with good natural light. A common mistake is to plant to early in the year when light levels are low only to have seedlings that then get leggy and weak because they’re trying to reach towards light. I never sow before February no matter what everyone else is doing. I have to exercise restraint mind, as I am dying to get going. Trust me you can wait. 

Pricking out seedlings is a process that means transplanting them. The reason you have to do this is to help your plant move on from ‘seed’ stage to ‘growing on’ stage, where it will require a bigger pot or cell.  Be ruthless with seedlings when you are pricking out. It’s something that I struggle with even now, it always makes me feel bad getting rid of anything that’s grown, no matter how tiny. However it’s a necessity for a good strong plant so its worth being a bit like the grim reaper in the beginning.  Handle all seedlings by their leaves, never by the stem. Be gentle with roots. I have a video on how to ‘prick out; on my Instagram account which will help you as it can be a bit fiddly.  At this stage they can be kept in a light area, and the compost kept moist where they will continue to grow until they are ready to be potted on, either into larger containers or planted out into the ground.

Be patient and don’t be put off if growing instructions are a bit daunting, there’s nothing to lose and seeds won’t grow in packets! I encourage you to try everything just once and gradually you will develop your skills and your love for growing and you’ll be surprised at how much you have learnt along the way. 

Don’t panic if your seeds haven’t germinated in the time indicated, it can be very variable and i’ve re sown seeds before only to find that one its warmer all the seeds germinate and I’m inundated! 

And finally! Get a good book, they are an invaluable resource, as well as online but there’s nothing better than a book that becomes your bible through the years, getting all covered in muddy fingerprints as you carry it round the garden. I practice no dig gardening so for me Charles Dowding is the best teacher there is, but for all round gardening practice, you could do no better than consult my heroes; Monty Don, Penelope Hobhouse and Geoff Hamilton ( to name a few )that will guide you through step by step and stay with you for years to come .